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Just Wanna Pick a Level?

Quality levels are hard to define.  Different people have wildly varied ideas about the steps and procedures involved, so one person's version of 'tabletop' might differ from another’s.  However, for people wanting to simplify the quote process or to get an idea of what is involved, here’s some starting points you can use and what would generally be involved in the work.

  1. For higher display quality levels, detailed bespoke projects, or to modify one of the categories below, adding basing, weathering, freehand etc, please don't hesitate to send me a message!
     

  2. This is a big one!  One similar sized model does not equal another at the same level, particularly if you want each element painted separately.  At 'Battle Ready' completing 10 models covered in the same armour will be cheaper than 10 models with areas of armour, skin, metal, different hanging pieces etc.

Centrepiece & Full Display

Just to give you ideas, so I've not included a photo.  This could include the following…

  • Finishes beyond basic Display Ready tier in general or specifically on particular areas.

  • Extensive freehand or model customisation work.

  • More stylised colour use or paint effects.

  • More realistic weathering or colour use.

  • Multi colour object source lighting effects.

Really a fully bespoke quote for centrepiece models, with huge amounts of time spent on every detail.  Should look impressive under scrutiny.

Display Ready

A high tabletop level that looks great in a cabinet and up pretty close, though not overly scrutinised in zoomed in photos or comparable to competition level.

  • Main colour airbrush with zenithal (from the top!) and multi stage highlights. Armour panels can have smooth lighting transitions.

  • All other material elements* painted separately, sometimes initially using Contrast paints, washes, inks etc if possible to give immediate variation in value (lightness level).

  • Separate washes or other multiple methods of coloured shading for each material element*.

  • 2 and sometimes more highlight layers for each material element*.  These can have some amount of blending for smooth panels or may be drybrush or edge line highlighted.  Secondary or major element like skin can have smoother transitions too.

  • Most micro details like eyes, teeth, screens with patterns, and coloured cables, painted and highlighted, including some freehand patterning.

  • Basic weathering done with 2 stage painted on scratches, sponge chipping, textured paint, washes, inks and airbrush. (Not shown in example image for consistency with others. Also weathering is usually in relation to basing colour and the setting the model is in!)

Battle Ready

Great looking models from around 1.5 feet away.  An army of these would look very good indeed.

  • Main colour airbrush with 1 or 2 stages of basic or zenithal (from the top!) highlights.

  • All other material elements* painted separately, sometimes using Contrast paints, washes, inks etc if possible to give immediate variation in value (lightness level).

  • Separate washes for each material element that requires it (that’s not already heavily shaded by ink or Contrast paints*.

  • 1 upper, light facing highlight layer for each main, material element, though not many details.  This will be either a layer, drybrush or edge line highlight.  This will often not include any smooth blending at this finish level but will be carefully, tastefully done.

    • Some highlighting can be replaced with weathering work as mentioned under Display Ready models above.

  • Some, usually 3 standout micro details like small screens are painted and highlighted. Pupils can be painted on character’s eyes and those with more large, prominent eyes.  Others will have an ink/Contrast wash of a relevant colour.

Tournament Basic Ready

  • The main thing here is, for this level, I will need more control over how the colour scheme will be interpreted, as the aim here is very much cheap and cheerful.

    • Some models take to this level better than others.  Skeletons and basic tyranids can look as good as Battle Ready models done in the right way here.​

  • Main colour airbrush with 1 or 2 stages of basic or zenithal (from the top!) highlights.

  • Usually a couple of material elements* painted using Contrast paints, washes, inks etc if possible to give immediate variation in value (lightness level).

  • All over washes and drybrush if and where appropriate, particularly on main and/or secondary colour.

  • Metals and sometimes one or two smaller elements painted and with wash for depth.  (Also includes base coated and washed eye lenses for miniatures with prominent eyes.)

Mostly for those wanting a basic, at least 3 colours, level that look good from  several feet away as a full army.

* By 'material elements' here, I mean any details other than the main, dominant armour or skin.  So pouches, straps, gun metals, scaled areas, tabards, hoses, handles, hair. Practically anything.  

I do not, however, mean separate, individual switches on a console, a row of pouches in three different leather types or each object hanging on a chain as an individual piece. These, I would refer to as 'micro details'.

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